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Saturday morning: Got the new lengthened forge lined and coated yesterday. Did a trail run this morning. After figuring out a few things, I hardened the "Alaskan" with a clay induced hamon and she's in the first temper now. After drying out all the moisture yesterday and this morning, I gave...

Got the forge lined and coated today and ran a few times to get the water evaporated from the refractory. Seems like she's good to go, so I'll be hardening and tempering the "Alaskan" in the morning. :60:

I'm going to have to set this on the back burner for a day or two. I have built the new forge you see below to accommodate forging, thermal cycling, hardening, etc. of longer blades than I am able to easily do in the 12" forge in the back ground. This new one is made from similar 12" pipe, but I...

It's one of those vinyl strip walk through doors. The strips are .060" thick, six inches wide and overlap 1" on each side. Just walk through instead of opening a door. Keeps the heat in very nicely.

I try to take a shower every day, and I come from good Scandinavian stock. Thanks for the compliment. :3:

Ready for hardening: (Another day!)

So, here's our blade, which, by the way is just short of 10 1/4": Now I sort of figure out where I want my maker's mark: And stamp it with a 50 ton jack: After clean up on the surface grinder: Here I have clamped on a file guide so I can do some basic stock removal of the excess...

Now, there's only one way to do a decent false edge and have it crisp and sharp, and in the center. That is to draw file the false edge. I know of no other way. Then, clean up the draw file marks with a steel sanding bar: This puts the center in, well, the center!! And it's sharp and crisp.

Now, I'm going to clean up the tang and ricasso area to make sure I have the exact same thickness from fillet to tang tip: I will also show that just before I did the initial grinding, I cleaned up the ricasso and tang and scribed a center line with my height gauge and surface plate. I...

Here are some shots of the finish room showing most of the basic tools of knife making, grinders, mills, etc. These two pictures are the knife after initial profile and basic grinding: Here's a little something I like to do to check my fillet after grinding to...

Well, I'm going to get a WIP going here at the request of the Big Dogs. I have a guy getting 2 hunters, a Bowie and an integral of matching handle materials, and this is the Bowie, which I have dubbed "The Alaskan", as the four knives will be going to interior Alaska. It's based on a Bowie I...

Thanks, Bruce! It's all in the forge, buddy. (And being friends with Don Hanson! :9:)

Here's a W2 "Sombrero" that should complete the outfit of any discriminating hunter. Hand-rubbed hamon, 416 stainless guard and mortised Stabilized California figured Walnut. I used some flush filed bullseye pins to keep the whole shootin' match together.

A li'l sumpthin' for the best dressed hunter: ;) 1095/416 San Mai blade Hot-blued steel guard Ironwood handle Ought to make a feller proud.

Yep.

I really like the potential this idea has to offer. There are tons of WIPs that have been scattered all over the forums and World Wide Web. It would be great to have an updated and current version of some more recent creations, especially with movies, pictures, etc. And it would be quite...

:biggrin:

My new location on the Swan River in northern Minnesota needed to be represented further after my initial knife the "Illi-sota" hunter. I'm just a sucker for Twisted Wrought Iron and African Blackwood (the good kind!) Here is 14 3/4" of W2 and the rest:

Here's a knife just completed for a good customer. He chose a San Mai blade, which I made from 416 stainless with a 1095 core. 416 satin guard. And just a really sweet piece of African Blackwood for the handle. I find the Blackwood with the varying tones of brown striations to be of much...

Yep - hope they don't run me out!