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Thank ya Doug, that answers exactly what i was curious/worrying about. Knowing how quick 1095 has to cool i was wondering about the hold times from the tip submerge to the back of the cutting edge submerge. i will try like you said, thanks for the info steve

Thanks guys, Ya Doug i didnt word that whole thing real well lol. I submerge the tip of the blade in the quench for around a count of 7 and then roll the rest of the cutting edge of the blade into the quench and hold there until the rest the blade (the spine and area left above the quench)...

Thanks I was cutting 1" poly braid rope, i couldnt find any hemp rope like i always see in the write ups on rope cut tests

Hi guys Well i am getting ready to do a run of a bunch of 1095 knives of the same make and my normal procedure is to clay quench them but I was wondering if it would be possible to edge quench them instead ? i figured this would be a little less time consuming and give a little more...

I did the cut test with the multiple quenched 52100 blade this weekend and it did cut quite a bit longer. I did a write up on it and the knife in the custom knife section. This was my first rope cut test so i cant say i did everything perfect but there was a for sure increase in edge holding...

I thought this pic showed the wood and hamons better

Thank yall, Ya so far i am more happy with this one than with any knife i have made so far. The blade is 5/32" thick stock, sorry i forgot to mention that

Just got this one finished today. I actually made this knife and another one at the same time but i decided to try a different heat treat on this one so i took me a hair longer to get it finished. The first knife of this 52100 batch i made was a single quench blade that i normalized and heat...

Congrats !!

I have just recently started working with Aldo's 52100 and a big thanks goes to Kevin Cashen for his info on the steel. I followed the info you messaged me Kevin and did my normalizing process starting at i think 1675deg. I have only done 2 knives so far like this and the quenching was done a...

Hope not, if i remember reading right wasnt the one that was stolen a pretty good sized knife ? this is a pronghorn yearling, only about 7" OAL

I found this on Ebay the other day, i am a Ed Fowler fan myself but a friend of mine who first coached me in knife making is a massive Ed Fowler fan. When i first got interested in making knives this buddy coached me a lot and gave me some Fowler books that sparked my interest. Anyway my...

This is my first time working with 52100 so I wanted to see if this was common. This is a blade polished to 600 grit and then etched. This blade was normalized by heating to 1675,1550,1475 and 1250 and allowing to cool to black in still air each time. I HTed the blade with a 4min soak at 1490...

Thank yall, the knife is headed out tomorrow as a present for a husband on there 10th anniversary, just in time lol

Archers Etchant, ferric chloride, will do it . i use mine if i remember righted mixed in a 1:3 ratio with water. The stainless just has to soak longer, 440c was like 5-8 min and cpm154cm was like 15min, you will just have to watch it and see what works for ya.

I have made several of these knives lately but this was my first time using Redwood burl so i wanted to show some pics of it. The wood is awesome!! To me it almost looks like muscle tissue under a microscope or something, cool stuff!!

Good lookin!! nice looking knife!

I finished these up over the weekend, this was my second time making a bird and trout type knife. I like the design and shape of the knives and i look forward to making some more these are both about 7" oal, both convex ground running all the way to the spine for a very low drag cut. i...

thats awesome work!!

Looks good