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Thanks to all for the help. James, I will try the Mobil 1, I use WD40 now. And I agree with you on the 400 grit being the most important step, then 600 I think is next important, from there it goes prety good. Rob, thanks for the buffing info. I am running an 8 inch wheel, so it is a...

rob45, I use belts upto 320 grit, sometimes 400, I have problems with belt bumping with finer grits, so 400 is as far as I go for finishing, then go to hand sanding. My buffer is 3450 rpm, I know a little to fast, but it is what I have. I use a sewn wheel with green compound, and then a loose...

I have been doing mirror finishes for sometime now, and do it all by hand sanding from 320 grit up to 2000 grit then lightly buff. It looks good, but it sure is slow going. Is there something that I am missing, that would make it faster, easier? I guess it doesn't take all that long, 2-4 hrs...

The only thing I have been told, by my Postmaster, that was illegal in shipping knives, was when I ask about shipping one to Switzerland, she said it was illegal, because it was a weapon. After contacting the Swiss Embassy, They said it was ok to ship it, just claim it as it is on the customs...

Looks good, I like that spalted oak. Good job.

On stick tangs the only part of the handle that I do, before HT, are the holes in the tang. If I make the guard before HT, it is loose after final sanding. I used to make a mock guard of the same thickness as the real thing, and drill my handle pin holes in the handle material, and tang. But I...

Interesting idea, it would be heavy at 25 pounds. What is it made for originally? Looks like it could work, if you could get the rubber on it, to stay, and be balanced. Let us know how it works out, and be careful.

Looks good Bubba, it shows that you have worked hard on this knife, great job. Can't wait to see it finished. Dale

Lookin good, I am excited, its going to be a long month.

Lilly is so cute. Does she have sunglasses for the hot summer days ahead?

Fixed the link in my first post. Sorry. Dale

I'll start off, if you don't mind. Here is my knife, it is a caper, in 440C, and G10 handle.

I have looked at the pics, that you mention, and don't quite get it either. Here is a link to a tutorial that I posted on a flat grinding jig that I use. http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?5457-Flat-grinding-jig-that-works This setup works real well, it does take some practice to get good...

Jantz Supply sells them. And they do work.

I like both of them, and like your choice of 1/8 inch thick steel, alot of new makers tend to use thicker steel than is needed, and in turn they sacrafice cutting ability because of poor blade geometry. Dale

Bubba, for steel online, check Amtektool.com, they have the best prices on O1 precision ground stock that I have found anywhere, and you can buy as little as one 18 inch piece and pay actual shipping cost only, no inflated shipping. If you check them out and want to buy from them, give them a...

Looks good, my only advice would be to give the handle some contour on the sides instead of a flat slab look. That is what I was told of my first knives, and when I followed that advice, it did make them look and feel better. Other than that it looks great, now have fun making it come to life...

Very Nice!

The steel type depends on a few things, such as, will you heat treat yourself, or send it out? If you heat treat yourself, what equipment do you have to do the job with? If you send it out for heat treat, you can prety much use whatever you like. If you do the job yourself, and only have a torch...

I am getting excited about this. This is the first KITH for me, and with work and a good backlog of orders I was thinking it was going to be tough to get er done, but I will finish mine Saturday, June 4. I just put the orders on the back burner this week and worked on the KITH knife, and it has...