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Really nice design, colors and labor intensive lace work! I just finished up a little holster for a very old Ruger Bearcat, and this thread reminded me of that. You do great gun rig work!!!! Paul

That is really some very nice work, Jerry. I am particularly impressed with the tip of the sheath. Paul

Great work! Nicely done! Next time try matching up the tooling on the belt loop with the rest of the sheath. Mixing of tooling patterns (stamps) can be distracting from the overall continuity of the piece. Even though that belt loop is removable the difference in tooling still applies when...

Craig, thanks for watching the DVD. The lining in the first DVD is 2 oz. Deer skin and I buy currently from Warden Leathers in Gloversville, New York Phone number 518 332 1016. The second DVD demonstrates a different style sheath and the lining in that one is a 2 oz. split of the same...

Well, the click to enlarge feature does very little more to enlarge your work, but from the small photos both here and Photobucket, I'd say you did one helluva job both on the knives and the sheaths. Thumbs up! I salute your talents! Paul

That is really good looking (even out of focus). Take another picture in focus and post it again in this thread. That sheath is definitely worth a second and third and so on look! Do you/will you do bead work for other folks? Paul

Thank you, Craig. My little speed beveler is about 18-20 years old and they kind of disappeared from the market for a while. I'm glad they surfaced again because they are sure handy and fast.

I would very much appreciate a link to where you found that speed beveler. thanks in advance! Paul

I can't help you much with your hand stitching. It's been years since I did any to speak of. Your Tippman Boss machine can digest a number of different threads. I'd recommend either/or Bonded Nylon or Bonded Poly. The thread weights will depend on what you are making, but for sheaths etc...

Jason, take a minute and read posts # 9 and 10 again and then read them one more time. Good enough should not be in a professional's vocabulary. good enough has been replaced by "Perfect". If you accept money for your work then like it or not you are either a professional or at least posing...

That's it! He said they were with Hamley for a while, so it must have been Duff and your Dad he was referring to. Paul

Robin, I was having breakfast with Don Atkinson (apprentice and student of Monroe Veach) this morning, and he mentioned Saddle makers Severe Brothers from Colorado? and Oregon. Are you connected by way of relation to these makers? Vocation and general geographics make it seem plausible. Paul

As Robin Said, not much use for a sheath maker, but plenty handy for saddles etc. and shoe and boot work. Paul

Robin is right on the money with his post. The least expensive and reliable machines that will do the job start at about $2000 (New) and the used market is slim and priced very closely. The Artisan 3000 model at about $2000 is only about $500 or so more than the Tippman retail to retail. Paul

Sure looks better now than it did as a chew toy!:57: Great job! Paul

Hola Pepin, Muchimas gracias, mi amigo. Paul

Good evening! Chris Crawford has informed me that the two instructional videos he produced detailing my methods of sheath making are edited and on the way to be mastered and produced for release. They should be available around the first of November. Below are a couple of links where you can...

It depends on the finish that is already on the sheaths, if any. If the sheaths are "naked" then you can just apply the dye and let it dry, then buff with a paper towel or old cloth to remove the top residue. If they happen to have some top finish then you will have to apply a deglazer to...

Chef, it's a little bit involved for a written explanation but basically it's like Mike said. Mate the lining and the sheath up grain side to grain side and stitch around the mouth and up the loop to the tip of the loop. Trim of the excess around the area that was stitched and then apply...

Cliff, my final finish for russet and chestnut is pure neatsfoot oil, let it level, and then Feibing's TanKote, let dry, then NeatLac or the equivalent (WyoSheen). Black and Brown is the same procedure except they don't get the neatsfoot oil because it makes the brown too dark. Paul