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Here is an inexpensive way to get a small wheel that I have not seen on the forums before so I will show what I have been using until I got my KMG. Posting this has been on my mind and now I am selling this and some other stuff to a friend so I went ahead and took some pics today. If you have...

Thanks, that sort of thing is what I had in mind. Thanks for the tip. This has got me thinking about what I had been using so I will post a tutorial on it in a little while. James

I love the 3/4". It will allow grinding the inner contours of the handle best over all for me. The largest wheel possible for the curve you are doing will make the nicest finish, but the 3/4 will get used the most. I am thinking about getting a 2" contact wheel for the KMG's platen so I can...

Back in the late Eighties, I was working at a knife retail store. Case Knives had come out with the line of stag handles on the pocket knives and they had a nice honey color. Sometimes they would come in not so nice and would be too white, so we (at the store) would take a propane torch and...

Nice finish on that wood too.

My first attempt with acid etch on some work knives. The blades are D2 heat treated at Peter's, the handles are black linen micarta. Thanks James

Now you got me thinking that's the way to go. LOL

After so many years of standing at the grinder, I decided to set up my new KMG to where I can sit in a chair (my aching knees). The CL of the contact wheel axle is 31" from the floor. I am liking this pretty well. It is easier to lean over to see to line up contours when shaping handles while...

This reminds me of a government auction I was at one time and there was 3 600HP electric motors that sold for $300 ea. I would have bought one to salvage the copper out of but there was no fork lift to load it with. Those things would dim the lights in your shop. LOL My KMG has the 1.5HP due to...

I linked this thread over at the Peter's Heat Treating thread. http://www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=3336 Brad may be able to help in what the difference is in jumping from one point to the next in the hardness scale and what this means in how much harder a 60 is compared to a 59.

I can see that when forging and repeated heating can cause huge amounts of potential contamination and a clean work piece will aid in consistency, but to the stock removal maker I don't see much difference it makes. The steel is in a controlled atmosphere or wrapped in foil when heat treated...

This is a huge issue for the maker with aspirations to go beyond the hobby level. I have thought long and hard about this. My name is James Sanders. There are many guys named Sanders in the knife business. So to distinguish me from the others I just created a whole new "brand name" that is...

I use a wood block with a thick piece of leather glued to the side where the sand paper will be. Rub with finer and finer sand paper until uniform in color and all the whitish light spots are gone. These light spots are the low spots. With 600 gr you can get a good finish going to the buffer...

Can you post the date and location please? Thanks James

LOL, I can not go in the shop without losing something, ruining something, or dropping something (usually something small I can't see, something I just polished or something very fragile). Seems that's what it takes to get stuff done. After spending all day looking for tools and cussing myself...