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I don't know if what I am about to write will answer your question(s), but I'll bullet some of the the things I do: -The rope test for me is a good way to back up what you thought your HT was. I have a kiln & Rockwell tester, but use the rope test ocassionally to verify my HT results. I also...

Thanks for the input. I am using a small piece of railroad rail (the narrow gauge stuff) for an anvil. I welded a small piece of 1095 on one end that has demples (partial holes drilled) to start my peening, which allows the under side to swell when starting on the top side. After a couple times...

Any advice on how to eliminate ballooning/deforming the fronts and backs of my bolsters while peening them? I have also tried using my pin press but it seems to do it just as badly. Right where the pins are, the press makes the pin pooch out the front & back of the bolster material. I am using...

I like your reply Ed! And besides, the few times I have used screws, I was always concerned that if it was taken apart, would it really fit back exactly like before. It seems like either the scales or the tang would be slightly proud. Everytime I used them, I used epoxy & Loctite so they...

I would also agree with Ed. 1095 was hard for me to get consistent results, so I gave it up. On the other hand, I don't think canola works very well for it, not consistently anyway. I think that oil is much better suited for your O-1 (I usually get about 63Rc out of the quench with O-1 and...

I just got through building a pin press, but it was a waste of my time. It doesn't come close to giving enough pressure to "smash/squeeze/expand" the pins. I only used a six ton bottle jack. I probably should have gone with a much bigger one. The other problem I found with it is I can't keep the...

If you use cold blue on a blade, it won't take well at all. If you sand blast if first, then follow the cold blue instructions, it will turn it a black matte finish. Good rust protection and it lasts quite a while.

I remove the blade from the oven, put it on its spine on top the oven (or in a separate rack) and let cool to ambient temperature. Usually takes 15-20 minutes and then place back in oven (on spine) for the second temper.

I put mine in the chest freezer for about an hour beforehand, but I have no proof that it makes it better or more effective. I started doing this because I had a couple instances where one of two/three blades didn't come out fully hardened after the quench. I seem to have better luck now that I...

That is interesting. I tried all the different "home recipe" oils and just couldn't get good results, but maybe the actual cutting edge got harder due to its thinner section. I tried motor oil, tranny fluid, veg oil and then finally tried water. Water was the only thing that got me up there, but...

Another thought is HT'ing another piece and not tempering it. This way you know what is going on during the quench. Quenching and then tempering before testing leaves you little in the dark since you don't know if you got good results to begin with. I would say at least do this until you are...

Hi Ernie, Is that the blade you had Clint test? If so, I'm impressed that you were that high in rockwell with the oil you were using; just going off all the time I spent with 1095 and canola oil. To answer your question, I think some would say to just restart your recipe and I think others...

I know that I am not the smartest guy in the world, but I am learning everyday through experience, questions and research. I am just glad that I wasn't way off in left field and everyone else was at the bar celebrating after the game. But this still leaves me with needing help. Back to CPM...

Thank you for the response. Maybe my original question was a bit misleading, but I was trying to ask about tempering to increase toughness, not flexibility. I stated that I wanted it to be as flexible as the steel would allow (which I picked up a long while ago from your response to another...

This is just a quick response after glancing over yours during my lunch break. I'll have to re-read it a dozen more times when I have more time. I guess I failed to show my "somewhat" understanding that steel thickness directly correlates with its ability to flex and has nothing to do with its...

I have seen info stating to temper in those high ranges, but that seemed to pertain to the "high critical temp" recipe. Every recipe I have found for the "lower critical temp" has shown tempering somewhere in the 400 deg range (which I am using). I am finding it funny that a two hundred degree...

I am trying to build a boning knife. The blade is about 6.5 inches, CPM 154 and thickness of about .100. I HT'ed it in the "profiled only" state and got 62-63 Rc out of the plate quench. Now I am trying to temper to soften it more than I would any other type of blade but can't seem to soften it...

I pre heat the oven to 1500 deg. and let equalize for about 15 minutes. Place the blade (in a "cap & pouch" foil packet) in the oven and time for 10-12 minutes once the oven gets back up to temp. Remove the blade and quench in the oil pre heated to about 120-130 degrees. Temper twice @ 390...

I am curious to see what the results will be. I was playing around with 1095 and canola oil, but never had good luck. I finally gave up on it and went with O-1. I think you will find with a heat treat oven and canola oil, you can get good results (typically 62-64 Rc out of the quench). I do...

I am testing at least three different spots. When I test oil quenching steels, I test as close to the front as I can that will be hidden by a bolster or the handle (I don't fully quench those type of blades). When I test stainless (plate quench), I test most up close to the blade and a couple...