Search results

I'm not a daredevil but not a fearful weenie either. That being said, I truly wonder how probable this is? Think about how many folks out there are grinding stuff- from lawnmower blades to shop tools to knives- and how often do you hear about this kind of thing happening? Is is kinda like a...

I purchased a billet and now have gotten three blades rough ground to 60g. I figured now is a good time to get some advice before I screw anything up: 1: to what grit should I finish the blades prior to HT? 2: the maker supplied HT guide, which I'm sure is sufficient. However, any advice...

sub-zero stuff Thank Tracy, I was particularly interested in that since i just recently aquired my dewar and have done a few blades. Now did I read correctly - these folks say 0-1 will improve 400%+ with cryo??:eek: I was operating under the assumption that cryo was only for SS and D2...

Tell her to go throw that s\crap away and wait for her punishment in the bedroom! Be the MAN!

Well, I'm a little ashamed to put mine up with the others in this thread..... I went in a totally different design direction than the others. 440C with Corian handle. It's a poor picture to boot...oh well.

I do the typical 1925-40 for plate-quench. I have tried both the lower temper and the high temper and from my experience, the 950 deg temper makes a better blade- holds an edge better and also seems to finish easier. I would have to look at my notes to tell you exactly how long but I think it is...

I can't speak for XHP but I have used CTS-40CP from Carpenter, it is their powder metal verson of 440C - but with racing stripes! It compares to ATS-34 IMO. I've got one on my site that I made recently from 40CP. It works real well and treats much like 440C, perhaps a little easier since quench...

Got me a dewar! Now I got questions??? Is there any benefit to cryo after 1 temper cycle? I have seen it said that you should cryo immediately after quench. Should there be a snap-temper first? How long is generally acceptable to cryo? Do the rules change with type of SS? Thanks dogs!

John - that sounds like that would give you a convex edge- is that correct and what your looking for? A friend of mine has a rotary platen and best I can remember, it is sorta like 4 different slack belt areas. just trying to get that picture in my mind....

JW - that contraption looks like the cat's meow! I gotta come up with some way to adapt that idea to my KMG.... with your permission of course :)

Ernie - Cliff has a good point. While that has never happened to me with 01, it has happened to me with 440C - even when plate quenching. I had four blades move halfway down the blade 1/4"- ruined them! After some good advice from some sage makers, I have changed my grinding sequence and have...

MX -I'm not certain exactly what you are looking to do since you mentioned both hidden tang and then making scales - which are two different things. However, it looks like from the response you are looking to do a full-tang knife with antler scales. This I have done several times with whitetail...

Hey Boss, as you have been in the "bizz" a long time, you no doubt have learned the axiom of "you can't please all the people all the time." That surely holds true for retail, service and ultimately forum. If you try, you end up not pleasing anybody. That's why more than one knife forum, retail...

flats ...why not.... hard to beat a good flat grind for cuttin and slicin...

Fross - on a slightly different tangent - I am interested in how you are set up to oil quench ATS-34? I plate quench it now and have considered oil. Im sure the paintable anti-scale is part of the deal since I couldn't figure out how to get it our of the foil quick enough....

As a survey- how do you fine gentlemen "set the edge" on a completed knife? I normally take the grind down to finished thickness after hardening (thickness depending on intended use) and then use a 2" 220 grit to grind in the edge, move to a 400 to more finely hone it, then go to the hand...

Denat Alcohol or soapy water. No one has mentioned epoxy handling yet so.... warm epoxy, keep it warm during curing, proper mixing rate if your using the two bottle stuff, good stirring procedure- all are very important I have found. I nixed the "value hardware store" epoxies a long...

OK - I want one! Where do I send the layout?

I would be very interested, as a matter of fact, I was planning on visiting a store tomorrow to inquire about the very thing....hmmmm. What would you need to calculate price? I can .pdf my logo to you. I think I have it as a .jpg as well. Let me know please, email would be best-...

BE CAREFULL when you rough grind the handle, the stuff will burn easily. Dont get the bolts/pins too hot, they will give you a nice burn circle- especially with white. Use heavy grit, slow speed, quench often, then go to hand sanding pretty quickly. I wet sand it and it finishes great. It is...