I have been trying to pull up a simple pic as too what I was speaking of and this is the best I can find. Disregard the fancy molding that you see in this pic and just use the principle of a tenon and a mortise!!
Here is a better pic of what I am speaking of the mortise is the pocket that would be cut in the side rail or the two vertical pieces of the door itself. The tenon would be cut on the three pieces that make up, the top middle and bottom piece of your door.
If you go that route, use a drill press to drill all the holes square and true. Glue the dowels both ends as well as the joint. Use only a wood glue that is rated for exterior use and don't be stingy with the glue. You will need to wipe off the excess of course after clamping before it dries with a wet rag. Water will change up the color of the Oak so you may need to wipe down the entire door!
It drill a hole and as the bit goes into the wood it cuts a square hole. Now you know why a country screen door can cost so much!! Hope all this explanation helps!!!Lil wood glue wouldn't hurt either....Thanks Guys! I haven't done any mortise work at all, everything is just "straight" cut right now. I might just combine both ideas...... hardwood dowels, and then a screw too! Guess I'll be making a Home Depot run this morning to gather things I need.
Another issue that I THINK I have figured out is the screen..... I think I'm gona copy another "screen" door we have.... the screen is held in with what I call rubber "piping"...... a slot with a round rubber "gasket" with the screen pressed in...... my thought is to run a shallow saw kerf, about 1/2" from the inside edges, all the way around...... and then use fiberglass screen.
I just realized...... I got myself into another project that's gona take a lot more time then I thought about....... story of my life.![]()
that would take some serious talentI would rather slam my pinky toe in a sliding glass door than paint...
Watching my Dad woodwork when I was a kid, when he was setting screws in hard wood he would wet the screw with a cheap liquid hand soap to lube it. It made quite the difference and is a cheap optionGot it all together! I went with dowels and counterbored 4" deck screws. Oak can be so time consuming to assemble.... every single hole must be drilled, both pilot and counterbore, then hope you don't twist a screw off when tightening....... but I got it!
Had to do a bit of research for what to finish it with..... was going to go with an oil finish, but since even in the best conditions, that needs redone every year in Montana..... I thought I'd consult the "experts" at a couple of our local paint stores. When I told them I wanted a clear/flat finish for Red Oak..... they looked at me like a deer in the headlights....so I turned to trusty google. Ended up buying a clear wood finish from Behr...... which carries a 4 year guarantee on vertical surfaces. Did some scrap testing, and really liked it, so side 1 of the door is not drying. I'll get more pics later.....but now it's "watching paint dry time"![]()